Alaska 2006: Rainbows, Humpbacks, Bears, Orcas and Hot Springs
Every Alaska trip is so different, even though we may follow the same general itinerary. This year's trip offered yet more original adventures. We started our trip in Juneau on July 5, then caught a small plane to the Native American village of Hoonah early in the morning on July 7. Others in our group joined us at the 50-foot Delphinus, moored in the Hoonah harbor. By mid day the eight passengers (plus four crew) were on our way, but a few hours out, in Icy Strait, the boat suffered mechanical difficulties. So a friend from nearby Gustavus towed us back to Hoonah. So we became better acquainted with this special little town.
The next day off we went from Hoonah, heading east along Icy Strait. We marveled at a solitary bubble feeding humpback whale at tiny Spasski Island; ruddy turnstones and bald eagles joined in the marine feasting.
Then later that evening, another mechanical failure had us stopped (honest, this is a rare occurrence on the Delphinus), and this time an obliging fishing boat towed us to Tenakee Springs. Like Hoonah, the detour to this wonderful village proved a blessing in disguise.
The next day we were on our way again, anchoring at Sitkoh Bay for the night before spending a lazy afternoon at Warm Springs Bay, with its hot springs, waterfall and commercial fishing boats on a break from seining salmon. Then we made our way to Chapin Bay at the south tip of Admiralty Island after spending time with humpback whales and sea lions. Then another day with whales, watching another solitary bubble feeder and enjoying a cavorting juvenile. For a short interlude, we stopped at The Brothers Islands, where hushed deep, green rainforest offered a change of mood from the always busy Delphinus.
Then, for the iceberg aficionados in the group, we worked northeast to the mouth of Tracy Arm. From our iceberg-studded anchorage, we worked back around the Glass Peninsula and up to Windfall Harbor, a magical, mountain-ringed refuge close by Pack Creek. After a wet day at Pack Creek, where we enjoyed the antics of bears, ravens and eagles, we turned south, marveling at rainbows and a cloud-studded sunset. Pleasant Bay once again lived up to its name, offering not only beauty but a feast of fresh-caught Dungeness crab, trapped by Brian Hayes and Sarah Murray.
The next morning, as we left Pleasant Bay, sharp-eyed Lori Rothstein noticed splashing across Seymour Canal. The activity turned to be a pack of orcas hunting Dall porpoises. We tracked and photographed these magnificent hunters for hours before finally turning south to Petersburg, our final destination on this wonderful trip. A beautiful Petersburg evening on July 14 offered the grand finale.
