Photo Equipment Suggestions for Our Alaska Trip
The kind of film and equipment you bring will depend on your proficiency as a photographer and what you want to do with the photographs. My photo class web page contains extensive handouts on technique and I also have a huge page that includes links to manufacturers, mail-order sources and much more.
Film/Digital
BRING LOTS! A general rule of thumb is to bring twice as much as you think you'll need. Figure about ten rolls a day, more if you're photographing wildlife. If you have too much film, you can always stick it in the freezer when you get home and use it later.
If you're shooting digital, bring LOTS of memory cards. Also bring a laptop or portable storage device for uploading all those images. The boat features plenty of AC plug-ins.
If you're shooting film, in general, stay with a film you're familiar with, so that you have some idea of the results you'll get. Recommended slide film is fine-grain, high-quality film such as Fujichrome Sensia II, ISO 100, or Fujichrome Velvia, ISO 50. Both of these films feature bright colors leaning heavily toward the green. Another good film is Kodak's Elitechrome.
Because the region we're going to gets a lot of rain (hence, light levels are often low) and we will often be taking photographs--of humpback whales, for example--from the moving platform of the boat, you may want to bring some rolls of high-speed (ISO 400) slide film, such as Fujichrome Sensia 400 or Kodak Elitechrome 400. However, these films may be too grainy for your tastes. Test a roll or two of various films (preferably on a rainy/cloudy day) before the trip to see what you like. Of course, if you're shooting digital, you can adjust ISO from image to image.
Batteries
Please bring at least one extra set of batteries (preferably rechargeables) for each piece of equipment that requires batteries. If you have an automatic camera that is battery-dependent for operation, bring several sets. One of my mottos is that if anything can go wrong with equipment, it's batteries, batteries, batteries.
Backpacks/Carrying Bags
When considering how to transport your equipment, you must consider several factors. If you're taking your equipment as carry-on baggage, it must fit airline size requirements. If you're checking your cameras (not recommended because of the fragile nature of the equipment), you must be able to transport them by some "bullet-proof" means, such as in a Halliburton or Pelican case. To minimize the possibility of theft, you should disguise your checked-baggage camera case in a large duffle or other bag. Theft is not a huge problem in Alaska, as it is overseas, but it's always good to take whatever precautions you can.
When in the field, consider transporting your equipment in some kind of backpack system. We'll be doing a fair amount of hiking and getting in and out of skiffs.You can go low-tech and modify a standard day-pack such as those used by school children. There are all kinds of waist-packs that provide quick access; however, they contain only a limited amount of gear. Lowe-Pro and Tamrac make state-of-the-art camera backpacks. Lowe-Pro's Trekker AW is supposed to meet airline carry-one size restrictions. If you hunt around, you should be able to get it for $250 or so. Recent models incorporate laptops. You may want to bring a light pack for hiking.
Rain and salt water will be with us throughout the trip, so you must be able to protect your equipment from water. The Lowe-Pro backpacks come with built-in rain shields. Also, Ann Laird makes a variety of rain coverings for backpacks and cameras alike. (Porter's Cameras carries her line of protective covers.) Pelican cases are hard, waterproof and can be carried in a Lowe-Pro especially designed for this purpose. LowePro also makes a completely waterproof camera backpack. Regardless, bring an assortment of garbage bags and Baggies to protect your gear. You may also wish to bring a small folding umbrella for landscape/tripod work.
Camera Bodies
You should bring two camera bodies that will accommodate all your lenses, so that if one breaks you have a back-up. Also, bring your camera manual. A second body also enables you to quickly shoot with a different lens and/or different film. Medium-format or 35mm SLR camera systems are the most versatile.
With all camera equipment, do some "practice runs" BEFORE the trip. Read and reread your manual. The trip itself is NOT time to be learning how your equipment works.
Lenses
You'll be taking most of your photographs with lenses (35mm) ranging from about 28mm to 105mm. If you're planning on photographing wildlife, you'll need a 300mm lens when we're on the water (anything longer on a boat is impractical unless you have image stabilization lenses or a camera that features image stabilization), and a longer one onshore. Consider a high-quality tele-converter designed to couple with your lenses. Nikon and Canon, for example, make some excellent ones. Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars for a tele-converter that will do the job. You may wish to bring a macro lens and/or extension tubes for shoreside flowers or intertidal life. A couple of high-quality zoom lenses should cover most of your needs.
If you're purchasing a new lens, stay away from the cheap stuff. In general , you get what you pay for in camera lenses. Brand-name lenses that match your camera body are the best. I invest my money in the "glass" and settle for the least expensive camera body that will do the job.
Also, buy the fastest lens you can afford. A lens with a maximum aperture of 2.8 will allow in twice as much light as an f/4.0 lens. With coastal Alaska's low light levels, the extra f-stop can be worthwhile, allowing higher shutter speeds. However, keep in mind that fast lenses are often heavier, and since we do a lot of walking, you may have to compromise on weight.
Tripod
Bring the heaviest tripod you can comfortably carry. As with camera lenses, you get what you pay for. A cheap tripod may not only provide inadequate stability, but in the inclement conditions we'll be in, may jam up with dirt or corrosion. Both Bogen and Gitzo make high-quality tripods. Carbon fiber and basalt tripods offer great stability for less weight than conventional tripods.
You may also want to bring a small "table-top" tripod that you can stash in your camera pack. I find these great for macro work and I have a small Leica tripod I've used for years.
A ball head is great for wildlife. For landscapes you may want to consider a pan head. Wimberley makes some great products for quickly moving a large lens on a ball head. Some photographers also like to use a bubble level.
Be sure to bring a cable release to use with your tripod.
Flash
In the dark, rainy conditions of Southeast Alaska, a flash unit is useful, especially fill flash for filling in dark shadows on faces. If you haven't already invested in a TTL flash, such as those made by Nikon, Canon and other major film manufacturers, consider investing in this piece of equipment (of course, you must also have a camera body that will read the TTL data). You may wish to bring a sync cord for off-camera flash. Third party manufacturers, such as Sunpak, also make dedicated flashes. Again, bring your manual, and don't forget batteries. To save carry-on space, the pop-up flash available on many camera bodies is adequate for subjects within 10 feet or so of the camera.
Filters
Make sure you have a UV/haze/skylight filter for each of your lenses. Although these nearly clear filters do little to affect your image, they are essential for protecting that precious optical glass from salt spray and moisture.
You may want to bring an 81A, 81B and/or 81D warming filters to counter the bluishness of shadows and cloudy day light, although automatic white balance on digital cameras does a lot to compensate for color shifts. A split neutral density filter darkens those white Alaska peaks while holding detail on foregrounds. A polarizer is an essential landscape filter, cutting reflections and hence adding richness of color to sky, rocks and just about everything else on a sunny day. If you have an autofocus camera, be sure to use a circular polarizer.
To save money on filters, you can use step-up rings; buy the largest filter you'll need, say a 62mm-diameter filter and then you can use the step-up ring to attach it to a 52mm-diameter lens.
With digital, filters for color correction are not as critical. However, a polarizer and split neutral density filter still come in handy.
Miscellaneous
Bring lens cleaner and lens cleaning paper especially formulated for camera lenses. Also bring a small towel, chamois cloth or rag to wipe down salt spray or other moisture on your camera equipment. A lens hood is valuable on sunny days to cut down lens flare. A small repair kit is valuable, as is one of those "all-in-one" tools or a Swiss army knife. Bring a notebook and pens for jotting down data. A permanent marker is handy for writing on film canisters and to mark CDs (although for these latter purposes a marker especially formulated for CDs is recommended, as Sharpies can destroy CD data). A tape recorder is handy for note-taking. Fry's and other large electronics stores carry tiny, inexpensive all-digital recorders good for a limited amount of note-taking.
If you're interested in marketing your images later, consider bringing model-release forms. If you ever plan to sell your work for commercial/advertising use, you MUST have a release. Also, some editorial markets now require this as well.
Photo Equipment Suggestions for Our Alaska Trip
The kind of film and equipment you bring will depend on your proficiency as a photographer and what you want to do with the photographs. My photo class web page contains extensive handouts on technique and I also have a huge page that includes links to manufacturers, mail-order sources and much more.
Film/Digital
BRING LOTS! A general rule of thumb is to bring twice as much as you think you'll need. Figure about ten rolls a day, more if you're photographing wildlife. If you have too much film, you can always stick it in the freezer when you get home and use it later.
If you're shooting digital, bring LOTS of memory cards. Also bring a laptop or portable storage device for uploading all those images. The boat features plenty of AC plug-ins.
If you're shooting film, in general, stay with a film you're familiar with, so that you have some idea of the results you'll get. Recommended slide film is fine-grain, high-quality film such as Fujichrome Sensia II, ISO 100, or Fujichrome Velvia, ISO 50. Both of these films feature bright colors leaning heavily toward the green. Another good film is Kodak's Elitechrome.
Because the region we're going to gets a lot of rain (hence, light levels are often low) and we will often be taking photographs--of humpback whales, for example--from the moving platform of the boat, you may want to bring some rolls of high-speed (ISO 400) slide film, such as Fujichrome Sensia 400 or Kodak Elitechrome 400. However, these films may be too grainy for your tastes. Test a roll or two of various films (preferably on a rainy/cloudy day) before the trip to see what you like. Of course, if you're shooting digital, you can adjust ISO from image to image.
Batteries
Please bring at least one extra set of batteries (preferably rechargeables) for each piece of equipment that requires batteries. If you have an automatic camera that is battery-dependent for operation, bring several sets. One of my mottos is that if anything can go wrong with equipment, it's batteries, batteries, batteries.
Backpacks/Carrying Bags
When considering how to transport your equipment, you must consider several factors. If you're taking your equipment as carry-on baggage, it must fit airline size requirements. If you're checking your cameras (not recommended because of the fragile nature of the equipment), you must be able to transport them by some "bullet-proof" means, such as in a Halliburton or Pelican case. To minimize the possibility of theft, you should disguise your checked-baggage camera case in a large duffle or other bag. Theft is not a huge problem in Alaska, as it is overseas, but it's always good to take whatever precautions you can.
When in the field, consider transporting your equipment in some kind of backpack system. We'll be doing a fair amount of hiking and getting in and out of skiffs.You can go low-tech and modify a standard day-pack such as those used by school children. There are all kinds of waist-packs that provide quick access; however, they contain only a limited amount of gear. Lowe-Pro and Tamrac make state-of-the-art camera backpacks. Lowe-Pro's Trekker AW is supposed to meet airline carry-one size restrictions. If you hunt around, you should be able to get it for $250 or so. Recent models incorporate laptops. You may want to bring a light pack for hiking.
Rain and salt water will be with us throughout the trip, so you must be able to protect your equipment from water. The Lowe-Pro backpacks come with built-in rain shields. Also, Ann Laird makes a variety of rain coverings for backpacks and cameras alike. (Porter's Cameras carries her line of protective covers.) Pelican cases are hard, waterproof and can be carried in a Lowe-Pro especially designed for this purpose. LowePro also makes a completely waterproof camera backpack. Regardless, bring an assortment of garbage bags and Baggies to protect your gear. You may also wish to bring a small folding umbrella for landscape/tripod work.
Camera Bodies
You should bring two camera bodies that will accommodate all your lenses, so that if one breaks you have a back-up. Also, bring your camera manual. A second body also enables you to quickly shoot with a different lens and/or different film. Medium-format or 35mm SLR camera systems are the most versatile.
With all camera equipment, do some "practice runs" BEFORE the trip. Read and reread your manual. The trip itself is NOT time to be learning how your equipment works.
Lenses
You'll be taking most of your photographs with lenses (35mm) ranging from about 28mm to 105mm. If you're planning on photographing wildlife, you'll need a 300mm lens when we're on the water (anything longer on a boat is impractical unless you have image stabilization lenses or a camera that features image stabilization), and a longer one onshore. Consider a high-quality tele-converter designed to couple with your lenses. Nikon and Canon, for example, make some excellent ones. Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars for a tele-converter that will do the job. You may wish to bring a macro lens and/or extension tubes for shoreside flowers or intertidal life. A couple of high-quality zoom lenses should cover most of your needs.
If you're purchasing a new lens, stay away from the cheap stuff. In general , you get what you pay for in camera lenses. Brand-name lenses that match your camera body are the best. I invest my money in the "glass" and settle for the least expensive camera body that will do the job.
Also, buy the fastest lens you can afford. A lens with a maximum aperture of 2.8 will allow in twice as much light as an f/4.0 lens. With coastal Alaska's low light levels, the extra f-stop can be worthwhile, allowing higher shutter speeds. However, keep in mind that fast lenses are often heavier, and since we do a lot of walking, you may have to compromise on weight.
Tripod
Bring the heaviest tripod you can comfortably carry. As with camera lenses, you get what you pay for. A cheap tripod may not only provide inadequate stability, but in the inclement conditions we'll be in, may jam up with dirt or corrosion. Both Bogen and Gitzo make high-quality tripods. Carbon fiber and basalt tripods offer great stability for less weight than conventional tripods.
You may also want to bring a small "table-top" tripod that you can stash in your camera pack. I find these great for macro work and I have a small Leica tripod I've used for years.
A ball head is great for wildlife. For landscapes you may want to consider a pan head. Wimberley makes some great products for quickly moving a large lens on a ball head. Some photographers also like to use a bubble level.
Be sure to bring a cable release to use with your tripod.
Flash
In the dark, rainy conditions of Southeast Alaska, a flash unit is useful, especially fill flash for filling in dark shadows on faces. If you haven't already invested in a TTL flash, such as those made by Nikon, Canon and other major film manufacturers, consider investing in this piece of equipment (of course, you must also have a camera body that will read the TTL data). You may wish to bring a sync cord for off-camera flash. Third party manufacturers, such as Sunpak, also make dedicated flashes. Again, bring your manual, and don't forget batteries. To save carry-on space, the pop-up flash available on many camera bodies is adequate for subjects within 10 feet or so of the camera.
Filters
Make sure you have a UV/haze/skylight filter for each of your lenses. Although these nearly clear filters do little to affect your image, they are essential for protecting that precious optical glass from salt spray and moisture.
You may want to bring an 81A, 81B and/or 81D warming filters to counter the bluishness of shadows and cloudy day light, although automatic white balance on digital cameras does a lot to compensate for color shifts. A split neutral density filter darkens those white Alaska peaks while holding detail on foregrounds. A polarizer is an essential landscape filter, cutting reflections and hence adding richness of color to sky, rocks and just about everything else on a sunny day. If you have an autofocus camera, be sure to use a circular polarizer.
To save money on filters, you can use step-up rings; buy the largest filter you'll need, say a 62mm-diameter filter and then you can use the step-up ring to attach it to a 52mm-diameter lens.
With digital, filters for color correction are not as critical. However, a polarizer and split neutral density filter still come in handy.
Miscellaneous
Bring lens cleaner and lens cleaning paper especially formulated for camera lenses. Also bring a small towel, chamois cloth or rag to wipe down salt spray or other moisture on your camera equipment. A lens hood is valuable on sunny days to cut down lens flare. A small repair kit is valuable, as is one of those "all-in-one" tools or a Swiss army knife. Bring a notebook and pens for jotting down data. A permanent marker is handy for writing on film canisters and to mark CDs (although for these latter purposes a marker especially formulated for CDs is recommended, as Sharpies can destroy CD data). A tape recorder is handy for note-taking. Fry's and other large electronics stores carry tiny, inexpensive all-digital recorders good for a limited amount of note-taking.
If you're interested in marketing your images later, consider bringing model-release forms. If you ever plan to sell your work for commercial/advertising use, you MUST have a release. Also, some editorial markets now require this as well.